Moscow - 16 years later

On the 3rd of March I flew non-stop from

Atlanta

to

Moscow

. It was the day after the "election" of the anointed new president of

Russia

. Last time I was in

Moscow

was 1992 just after the collapse of the

Soviet Union

. Those were tough years with much uncertainty and hope in the air. Since then, I have been back to

Russia

several time, but mostly to

St. Petersburg

and never to

Moscow

. I have heard much about

Moscow

becoming a new shiny super city awash with money and opportunity. So the time came for me to see it for myself.

On the approach we flew over

Moscow

's outskirts with huge "Dachas" organized into groups of 10 to 20 fenced by substantial fences and clearly well secured. It is ironic that this latest incarnation of a simple house in the country for weekend and summer's getaways is neither simple nor really away from much. These are elaborate mansions designed to outdo the neighbor and to impress the visitor. I can't imagine much relaxation going on in there.

Upon landing we were in the old beat up

Sheremetevo

Airport

. It is shabby as are most of the public places in

Moscow

. In fact most have become much shabbier over the last 16 years. This is in contrast with things private. Dachas, Houses, and Office buildings of the moneyed elite are new, expensive and shiny indeed. This makes for a eye cutting contrasts. Imagine the latest 600 Mercedes racing down an awful pot-hole filled dirty street. That's how it is with everything. Extremes.

The populace in general is too busy trying to get by and survive to worry much about presidential elections or politics in general. If 16 years ago everyone was caught up in it, now they mostly don't care. Cynical and tired of being mislead and lied to, they just go on fighting the daily lives. The sliver of those who are financially well are indeed in possession of all appropriate "toys": Latest cars, phones, designer clothing, and sleek apartments and dachas. They enthusiastically support all sorts of wildly overpriced restaurants and clubs. The whole town has a feeling of an oil boom town. Which, of course, is what it really is. 

Yet all that wealth and over-consumption happens to exist on the background of muck, ugliness, and bone chilling cold. And no matter how much you have, you still have to live in it, be surrounded by it, and become a part of it. If

St. Petersburg

has the saving grace of being aesthetically pleasing and very "European" in feel,

Moscow

is definitely equal parts

Asia

, Ugly architecture, industrial pollution, and ever present dirt. There are beautiful exceptions of course. But those are mostly left over from bygone era prior to 20th century.

Here it is even more evident that

Russia

is truly a third world country with failed basic institutions. Medicine is virtually out of reach for the majority. Forget about social net of any sorts or even the vaunted “free” education. It has all turned into a “fee based” (with fee appropriated by the person delivering the service) systems. It is of little concern to the “elites” who are thoroughly enjoying the boom.  The thing about “booms” is that they are always followed by “busts”. And when this one comes, it will be a whopper.

With all of this as a background. It was almost bizarre to watch the “victory” celebration of Putin and Medvedev’s elections. In a scene that could only be thought up by a science fiction writer 20 years ago, 2 men walked out of Kremlin’s gates and proceeded across the red square on foot to meet with the “regular people” celebration rally. Some snow flakes were falling and it was windy. The 2 of them however were dressed lightly and “young”. Putin sporting a stylish short coat over black jeans. Medvedev was wearing the “worn look” jeans and a black leather jacket. He could have gone directly to playing a part in west side story. The teen “American” dress code of the new president surprised no one. And that is the biggest shock of all. In the end, this too was for show. I am sure that this will be the last time in the next 4 years that they walked outside of Kremlin and across red square. I am equally sure that once the cameras were off they were whisked away in their black 600 mercedes with special BMW police escort clearing their way through the chocking traffic stuck in a seemingly permanent state of mud. They were off to the dacha and the people were left behind in the mud. As has been their fate for more close to 100 years now.

Meanwhile somewhere far far away Hillary Clinton was winning

Texas

and

Ohio

. A farce of sorts to be sure. But a farce that pales in comparison.